France has introduced a groundbreaking law to curb the environmental and health impacts of ultra-fast fashion giants like Shein and Temu.

France has taken a bold step to combat the environmental and social damage caused by ultra-fast fashion. A new law aims to regulate companies like Shein and Temu, which flood the market with millions of ultra-cheap garments annually. These items, often priced as low as six euros, are frequently discarded after little to no use, contributing to massive waste. The law introduces a ‘production penalty’ for brands that produce excessively cheap clothing, discouraging high-frequency production. Additionally, it bans advertising for ultra-fast fashion, though implementing this measure faces legal hurdles under EU regulations.

The environmental stakes are high. According to France’s trade minister Serge Papin, 70% of tested ultra-fast fashion products failed to meet safety standards, with 45% deemed outright dangerous. Microplastic fibers and ‘forever chemicals’ in these garments pose severe risks to health and the environment. A recent test by Germany’s Environmental Aid found a children’s jacket containing 12,000 times the legal limit of harmful chemicals. Flore Berlingen, an eco-activist and recycling expert, hailed the law as a ‘cultural breakthrough,’ recognizing the harmful practices of ultra-fast fashion and their impact on local industries.

However, the law has its critics. While it targets non-European giants like Shein, it exempts European fast fashion brands such as Zara, H&M, and Primark. These companies successfully lobbied for a loophole: only brands failing both criteria—offering a wide range of products and discouraging repairs—are penalized. This means brands with slightly higher prices, which make repairs viable, escape sanctions. Berlingen criticized this exemption, arguing it undermines the law’s intent.

Despite these challenges, the law has been praised for its pioneering approach. Pierre Talamon, head of France’s National Clothing Association, called it ‘absolutely necessary’ and a point of pride for France. He defended the exemption for European brands, citing their contributions to local economies through taxes, jobs, and physical presence. Still, the law’s effectiveness will depend on its enforcement and the EU’s willingness to approve advertising bans on a case-by-case basis. As France leads the charge against ultra-fast fashion, the global industry watches closely to see if this initiative can inspire broader change.